Deer Vision Article

How Well Deer Can Detect Color

   A scientific study done by the University of Georgia in 1992 conducted by Drs. R. Larry Marchinton and Karl V. Miller, and Bryan Murphy from UGA, Dr. Gerald H. Jacobs and Jess Degan from the University of California, and Dr. Jay Neitz from the Medical College of Wisconsin have shown that a Deer’s eye contain Rods and Cones much like the human eye. Rods are more sensitive to low levels of light, but do not register colors and Cones tend to be able to pick up colors in daylight. The human eye contains more Cones than Rods, so this basically means that we can distinguish a wide variety of colors, but because we have less Rods we have limited night vision capabilities.

  A Deer’s eye contains more Rods than Cones, so they are able to see in a much lower light level (night vision) than humans. There is some debate on exactly how well Deer can distinguish colors, but there is evidence that they can see some color spectrums. Studies have shown that Deer have only blue and green color sensing cells (cones) on their retina and that a Deer's eye does not contain an Ultra Violet filter giving them the ability to see in the Ultra Violet spectrum and can only see short color wavelengths like blue and middle wavelengths like green. Colors like orange and red may appear to them as shades of grey, because they are essentially red / green color blind since they lack the ability to see higher wavelength colors like red. What this means is that red colors will not stand out to a Deer.

  You may be asking yourself "What does this have to deal with the clothing I wear when Deer hunting?" Many hunters may have the misconception that if they wear orange or brightly colored clothing or vests that they will be seen by Deer. Studies have confirmed that these colors can be perceived by the Deer, but all look the same (a grey hue). So, if you wear clothing that contain green and can sufficiently break up your pattern, you will be good to go.

  You have to remember that many animals do not totally depend just on their eyesight to detect predators. They depend heavily on hearing and smell in most cases rather than eyesight alone. This does not include all animals because predators do depend on eyesight just as much as they do on their other senses. Deer will often times smell or hear you before they even see you, but if you move and if they are looking in your direction will detect the movement since they can see almost 90% of the world around them because of the way their eyes are located in relation to their head. Most prey species eye's are wide set on either side of their heads, where a predators eye's (like humans) are set closer together and more to the front side of the head.

Here are some tips of what to wear and not to wear:

·                     Do not wear anything that is blue, as this color is detectable by Deer.

·                     Do not wash your hunting clothing that contain UV brightening (color brightening detergents) detergents as this might be a problem in low light conditions and it may be more detectable by the Deer.

·                     Do not wear clothing that contains vinyl or plastic because they reflect light and can be seen by the Deer.

·                     Do wear safety vests or shirts that are orange or red for safety, if your state law allow it, wear those colors in a pattern that will break up the overall pattern (these are illegal in some states).

·                     Deer detect scent and movement far before they detect what you are wearing.

·                     Try not to wear solid color clothing, rather something that will help break up your pattern, such as camouflage.

The following information is on how Deer communicate in pdf format:

http://www.qdma.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/How-do-Dear-Talk.pdf

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Wild Pig and Boar

Wild Boar and Pigs

 Wild Boar/Pig Facts and Information:

  The wild boar (Sus scrofa) is the wild ancestor of the domestic pig. It is native in woodlands across much of Central Europe, the Mediterranean Region (including North Africa's Atlas Mountains) and much of Asia as far south as Indonesia, and has been widely introduced elsewhere. It is in the same Suidae biological family as the Warthog and Bush pig of Africa, the Pygmy Hog of northern India, Babirusa of Indonesia and others.

Wild boars have a confirmed maximum weight of 900 lb (400 kg) for adult males and can be up to 9 ft (2.7 m) long. If surprised or cornered they may become aggressive - particularly a sow with her piglets - and if attacked will defend themselves vigorously with their tusks.

The wild boar became extinct in Great Britain and Ireland by the 17th century, but wild breeding populations have recently returned in some areas, particularly the Weald, following escapes from boar farms.

Wild or Feral:

  The difference between the wild and domestic animals is largely a matter of perception; both are usually described as Sus scrofa, and domestic pigs quite readily become feral. The characterization of populations as wild, feral or domestic and pig or boar is usually decided by where the animals are encountered and what is known of their history

  The term boar is used to denote an adult male of certain species, including, confusingly, domestic pigs. In the case of wild pigs only, it is correct to say "female boar" or "infant wild boar", since boar or wild boar refers to the species itself.

  One characteristic by which domestic breed and wild animals are differentiated is coats. Wild animals almost always have thick, short bristly coats ranging in color from brown through grey to black. A prominent ridge of hair matching the spine is also common, giving rise to the name razorback in the southern United States. The tail is usually short and straight. Wild animals tend also to have longer legs than domestic breeds and a longer and narrower head and snout. European adult males can be up to 200 kg (sometimes up to 300 kg in certain areas, particularly Eastern Europe) and have both upper and lower tusks; females do not have tusks and are around a third smaller on average.

Hunting/History:

  A full sized boar is a large strong animal armed with sharp tusks which defends itself strongly; so hunting has often been a test of bravery in many countries.

  Historically, boar hunting was done by groups of spearmen using a specialized boar spear. The boar spear was fitted with a cross guard to stop the enraged animal driving its pierced body further down the shaft in order to attack its killer before dying. Specialized boar swords were also used in boar hunting, and also large hunting dogs, which would usually be equipped with heavy leather armor.

  Currently wild boars are hunted both for their meat and to mitigate the damage they cause to crops and forests. It has been said that one "only gets one shot" at a charging boar, because its hide is quite thick, its bones are quite dense, and anything less than a "kill shot" will allow the boar to continue its charge, which it will: hunters have reported being butted up into trees by boars that have already taken a glancing shot.

  Generally dogs are used, sometimes now wearing Kevlar vests, to track and subdue their quarry. These dogs are loosely divided into two categories, bay dogs, and catch dogs.

  Bay dogs harass and harry the boar, keeping it cornered in one place, while intensely vocalizing. This behavior is known as "baying" or keeping the boar "at bay". The bay dogs vocalizing alerts the hunter(s)to the bay, and the dogs maintain a slight distance from the boar allowing the hunter(s), once caught up, to dispatch the boar with a well placed rifle shot. Bay dogs are typically Cur dogs such as the Leopard Cur, Rhodesian Ridgeback, Blackmouth Cur, Catahoula) and trailing scent hounds such as the Walker Hound, Foxhound, Plott Hound).

  Catch dogs physically take hold of the boar, typically seizing the base of the boar's ear. Once the catch dogs have physical control of the boar, they will hold it down by the head indefinitely until the hunter arrives. The hunter then comes in from behind the boar, and dispatches the boar with a knife or spear. Catch dogs are typically "Bully" breeds such as the Bulldog, Pit Bull, Staffordshire Bull Terrier) and other molossers such as the Dogo Argentino, Cane Corso and smaller Mastiff crosses).

Characteristics and Habits:

  The body of the wild boar is compact; the head is large, the legs relatively short. The fur consists of stiff bristles and usually finer fur. The color usually varies from dark grey to black or brown, but there are great regional differences in color; even whitish animals are known from central Asia. During winter the fur is much denser.
  Adult boars average 120–180 cm in length and have a shoulder height of 90 cm. As a whole, their average weight is 50–90 kg kilograms (110–200 pounds), though boars show a great deal of weight variation within their geographical ranges. In central Italy their weight usually ranges from 80 to 100 kg; boars shot in Tuscany have been recorded to weigh 150 kg (331 lb). Carpathian boars have been recorded to reach weights of 200 kg (441 lb), while Romanian and Russian boars can reach weights of 300 kg (661 lb). Generally speaking, native Eurasian boars follow Bergmann's rule, with smaller boars nearer the tropics and larger, smaller-eared boars in the North of their range.
  Adult males develop tusks, continuously growing teeth that protrude from the mouth, from their upper and lower canine teeth. These serve as weapons and tools. The upper tusks are bent upwards in males, and are regularly ground against the lower ones to produce sharp edges. The tusks normally measure about 6 cm (2.4 in), in exceptional cases even 12 cm (4.7 in). Females also have sharp canines, but they are smaller, and not protruding like the males' tusks.
  Wild boar piglets are colored differently from adults, having marbled chocolate and cream stripes lengthwise over their bodies. The stripes fade by the time the piglet is about 6 months old, when the animal takes on the adult's grizzled grey or brown color.

  Wild boars live in groups called sounders. Sounders typically contain around 20 animals, but groups of over 50 have been seen. There have been on rare occasions where more than 50 animals have been discovered.

  The animals are usually nocturnal, foraging from dusk until dawn but with resting periods during both night and day. They eat almost anything they come across, including nuts, berries, carrion, roots, tubers, refuse, insects, small reptiles--even young deer and lambs.

  Boars are the only hoofed animals known to dig burrows, a habit which can be explained by the fact that they are the only known mammals lacking brown adipose tissue. Therefore, they need to find other ways to protect themselves from the cold. For the same reason, piglets often shiver to produce heat themselves.

  Adult males are usually solitary outside of the breeding season, but females and their offspring (both sub-adult males and females) their social group will often consist of at least 2 to 3 sows; one of which will be the dominant female. Group structure changes with the coming and going of farrowing females, the migration of maturing males (usually when they reach around 20 months) and the arrival of unrelated sexually active males. A litter will typically contain 4-6 piglets but can be more on rare occasions if food sources are abundant and territorial space is available to support them.

  If surprised or cornered, a boar (particularly a sow with her piglets) can and will defend itself and its young with intense vigor. The male lowers its head, charges, and then slashes upward with his tusks. The female, whose tusks are not visible, charges with her head up, mouth wide, and bites. Such attacks are not often fatal to humans, but may result in severe trauma, dismemberment, or blood loss. These animals are not to ever be under estimated by a hunter because they are capable of killing a human being in a very short period of time. The attack is savage and they can and will attack in pacts.

Domestic pig

  Domestic pigs can escape and quite readily become feral, and feral populations are problematic in several ways. They cause damage to trees and other vegetation, consume agricultural crops, feed on the eggs of ground-nesting birds and turtles, and can carry disease. Feral pigs often interbreed with wild boar, producing descendants similar in appearance to wild boar; these can then be difficult to distinguish from natural or introduced true wild boar. The characterization of populations as feral pig, escaped domestic pig or wild boar is usually decided by where the animals are encountered and what is known of their history.
  One characteristic by which domestic and feral animals are differentiated is their coats. Feral animals almost always have thick, bristly coats ranging in color from brown through grey to black. A prominent ridge of hair matching the spine is also common, giving rise to the name razorback in the southern United States, where they are common. The tail is usually long and straight. Feral animals tend also to have longer legs than domestic breeds and a longer and narrower head and snout.
  The problematic nature of feral hogs has caused several states in the U.S. to declare feral hogs to be an invasive species. Often, these states will have greatly-reduced (or even non-existent) hunting regulations regarding feral hogs. In Missouri, no hunting permit is required for the taking of wild boar; hunters may take as many as they like with any weapon. The Missouri Department of Conservation requests that hunters who encounter feral hogs shoot them on sight.

Helpful links and information:

http://www.wildboarusa.com/tips_tactics.html (Tips and Tactics)

http://www.texasboars.com/ (Hunting Hogs in Texas information)

http://www.gunnersden.com/index.htm.shooting-hunting-hogs.html (Hunting wild boar and pigs)

http://www.invasivespeciesinfo.gov/animals/wildboar.shtml  (National Agriculture Library)

http://www.berrymaninstitute.org/pdf/managing-feral-pigs.pdf  (wild boar and pig management document in pdf format)

Food Plot and Land Management Tips

Food Plot and Land Management Tips for Deer

  A good friend and hunting buddy of mine and has been hunting and managing food plots for over 20 years successfully. He has 300 acres to which he has dedicated 125 acres just for food plots for Deer and has been a big help to me in providing these helpful tips on how he has prepared and managed his land and food plots. I would like to specially thank Larry Perkins for providing the following tips and information. If you have additional tips and information on how you manage land and food plots for Deer, Dove, Turkey, Ducks, Quail, and other wildlife, please feel free to share them.

  Creating and managing areas to use for hunting or just simple enjoyment can be accomplished if you are willing to put forth the effort. The success of the food plot that you make will show if you put a lot of effort into it or if you just plow an area and throw out some seeds. The more you put into it, the more successful your area will be and produce a larger Deer harvest. You can create a successful food plot if you have around 25-40 (more is always better) acres of land to dedicate as this would be a good start, but can work with slightly less land.

  A lot of people do not understand that there are more variables to creating a food plot than just clearing an area and planting. You might want to consider is the approximate Deer population you have in your area and this is important because the size of your food plot will determine your yield. You do not want to have an undersized plot and an over population of Deer due to that fact that your plot will be stripped clean before you know it and may not attract the mature Deer that you want for hunting purposes. You may be able to find wildlife population information by checking with Fish and Game agencies in your area or County and State Wildlife Research agencies. This information may be helpful in determining how many sub plots you may want to create along with your main one.

  Once you have determined the acreage you wish to dedicate, the next step is to do some surveying and think about where you want your main food plot location and the size including any sub plots that you want and their size. I would suggest that you mark these areas off with some sort of markers and draw yourself a simple little map. Ideally, your main plot should be at least 3 acres to provide sufficient food sources to support your Deer population and your sub plots at .75 to 1.5 acres.

  Now that you have your acreage problem solved, you might want to take a look at your soil quality. The reason you need to think about the quality of your soil is because this will be a major factor in the type of food crops it will support. If you live in an area where the soil does not have a sufficient source of nutrients then you will be very limited in what you try to grow there and may require you having good quality soil imported in an extreme case or require you to dramatically treat it with a large amount of fertilizers and other crop nutrient products. An important thing to keep in mind is that you want to offer year round foraging for the Deer, so in one sub plot you want to plant something for those hard winter months. A nice annual mix of Brassica, Wheat, and Clover around 40% and the remaining 60% planted with a Perenneal food sources works well. The following are some examples of perennial food sources: Perennial Ryegrass, Maximilian Sunflower, illinois Bundleflower and Englemann Daisy, so do some research and find what will work best in your area. Some other suggestions to plant for Deer food sources include LabLab, Chicory, Chufa, Ironclay Cowpeas, Alfalfa, etc.

  When selecting your location you need to consider things like available bedding sites that are naturally available for the Deer or if you plan to create them by planting sufficient brush species, tree species like spruce or pine, and mid to large grasses, this will help attract Deer to your area by offering them sufficient cover and concealment. You may want to locate any available water sources nearby or may even consider creating a small pond in the middle of the plots so that it will be centrally located and easily accessible to them.

  Determining wind direction can also be helpful especially if you are going to use the site for hunting purposes. You can do this by placing stakes with small flags or pieces of cloth tied on them and watching for a period of a month during hunting season as this will give you a rough idea of the average wind direction for that period of time. This information will help you determine the best location for your stands or blinds in the area of the hunt.

 The following is a small list quick reference of some common seed crops that can be used for Deer:

            SEED                                                  TYPE

• Alfalfa                                             Perennial
• American Joint Vetch                    Annual
• Buckwheat                                       Annual
• Brassica                                           Annual
• Chicory                                           Perennial
• Chufa                                               Annual
• Clover, Alyce                                  Annual
• Clover, Crimson                             Annual
• Clover, Subterranean                    Annual
• Clover, White Ladino                    Perennial
• Cowpeas                                          Annual
• Englemann Daisy                           Perennial
• Illinois Bundle flower                    Perennial
• Ironclay                                           Annual
• LabLab                                            Annual
• Rape, Dwarf Essex                        Perennial
• Maximilan                                      Perennial
• Millet, Brown Top                           Annual
• Ryegrass                                           Annual
• Ryegrass                                         Perennial
• Soybeans                                           Annual
• Sunflower                                        Perennial
• Winter Wheat                                  Annual

For more detailed information on seeds, planting times, average prices, zone maps, and what crops are suggested for a variety of different types of game you want to attract you can check the following website. You can also download information in PDF format, keep in mind that this is not the only website that offers information so do some research to find what better fits your needs.

http://www.wildlifeseeds.com/info/usazonemap.html

Seed Selection Chart

Seed Name	Plant #/ac	How Deep	Min. pH	N2 Fixer	Annual Perennial	Far South	Mid	North
Alfalfa	20	0-1/4	6.5+	yes	Perennial	Oct-Dec	Sept-Nov 15	Aug-Sept
American Joint Vetch	15-20	1/4	5.5	yes	Annual	Mar-Aug	May-Jun	Jun
Buckwheat	50	1/2	5.5	No	Annual	Mar	April-May	May
Chicory	6	1/4	5	No	Perennial	Apr/Sept-Oct	April/July	May-Jun
Chufa	30	2	5.5	No	Annual	Mar-July	Apr-July	July
Clover, Alyce	15-20	0-1/4	6.2	Yes	Annual	May-July	May-July	n/a
Clover, Crimson	25	1/4	5	Yes	Annual	Oct-Feb	Sept-Feb	Aug-Apr
Clover, Subterranean	20	1/4	5.5	Yes	Annual	Sept-Oct	Sept-Oct	Sept-Oct
Clover, White Ladino	10-30	1/4	6.0	yes	Perennial	May/Mid-Sept-Oct	May/Sept-Oct	May/Sept-Oct
Cowpeas	60-80	1	5	Yes	Annual	May	May-Jun	Jun
LabLab	10	1	5	Yes	Annual	Apr-Aug	Mid-Apr-Aug	May-Jun
Rape, Dwarf Essex	10	1/2-1	5.5	No	Perennial	Mar/Aug-Sept	Mar-Mid-May/Aug-Sept	May/Jul-Aug
Millet, Brown Top	40	1/4	5.8	No	Annual	Mar/Sept	Apr/July-Aug	May/July
Ryegrass, Annual	35	1/4	5	No	Annual	Mid-Sept-Oct	Sept-Oct	Sept
Soybeans	60-100	1/2	6	Yes	Annual	Mar-May/July-Sept	May-June	May-June
Winter Wheat	60	1	5.5	No	Annual	Sept Or Later	Aug-Sept	Aug

Firearm Cleaning Tips

   All firearm owners from novice to experts should know the importance of keeping your firearm clean and in optimal firing condition at all times. If you take care of your firearm, it will take care of you and that is why it is critical that you perform maintenance and cleaning after you have fired the weapon, exposed it to the elements, handled the weapon extensively, etc. Hopefully, these tips will provide you with the necessary information to help you properly maintain your beloved firearm.

  First and foremost, the important thing to always practice and remember when working with any firearms is SAFETY, SAFETY, SAFETY! This point can never be stressed enough because hundreds if not thousands of people are accidently injured or killed every year because they did not practice proper gun safety. The ole "I think or know the gun is unloaded" is never acceptable because you should ALWAYS CHECK AND RECHECK to ensure the weapon is empty of rounds. This should always be done even if you are totally sure you are the last one to handle the firearm and you think you know it is empty.

  ALWAYS keep any firearm out of the reach of children and only let a youth handle any firearm under responsible adult supervision. You can purchase trigger locks and always keep them on as an added safety measure if you have children. Keep your firearm unloaded and the ammunition in separate and secure locations or use lock boxes or gun safes. When you feel that your children are of the appropriate age, instruct them on proper firearm safety (this should include the entire family) and let them know that any firearm is not a toy.

  Visually inspect your firearm to ensure that it is clear of debris that can obstruct the firing mechanism and barrel. Check for signs of excessive wear, cracks, worn parts, and ensure that ammunition is in proper condition. This will ensure your safety and the safety of the firearm. If you are not an expert or qualified gunsmith, always consult a Professional to replace any parts to ensure the proper part installation and function. Consult the firearm owners' manual if you have questions or concerns in regards to your firearm or consult a qualified Professional. You should only disassemble the firearm to the point needed to reach areas where powder residue and fouling accumulation has occurred (the bore, chamber, bolt, etc.). You will see this information again.

 

Ok, enough of the preaching, lets get to the tips.

  The most important tool that you will need to purchase and put some thought into, is the cleaning kit. There are tons of them out there on the market, but there are a few considerations you might want to think about.

1. If you have a single firearm then you can purchase a small kit that contains only the necessary tools to fit your firearm.

2. If you have multiple firearms and different caliber sizes, you may want to consider purchasing a universal kit that contains various sizes to fit the various calibers or gages.

3. Always ensure that the kits come with instructions and contain the oils and lubricants needed, otherwise you may have to purchase them separately.

4. Do some research and find out what the proper oils and lubricants you should use are and in what amounts.

5. I would consider purchasing two cleaning kits, one that is universal and has everything you need plus some that stays at home and a basic field cleaning kit that you can take hunting or that will travel with you.

GUN CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS

1. SAFETY FIRST- Always check the chamber to ensure the firearm is unloaded before attempting to clean. Remove any clips or magazines, you should never attempt to clean a firearm with a clip or magazine in the firearm.

2. Do not disassemble the firearm beyond what the manufacturer has recommended in the owner’s manual or what you need to clean. Lay the parts you remove out in an organized manner so that you know in what order your removed them. When you get ready to put everything back together, you can simply go in reverse order.

3. While disassembled, inspect for cracks, signs of excessive wear, rust, debris, and other things that could damage the firearm or prevent proper operation. Again, consult with a qualified gunsmith or technician for any necessary repairs.

4. Clean your firearm from the breech end whenever possible. If this method of cleaning is not possible, take precautions not to push debris into the action. Be sure to use the included Muzzle Guard if the cleaning is done from muzzle end. This will help to protect the crown (the area where the bullet exits the muzzle) from nicks and wearing. Protection of this area is critical to shooting accuracy. This is also an excellent tool to keep the cleaning rod centered when cleaning from the breech end.

5. Select the proper Jag or Patch Holder and correct size patch for your application. Saturate the patch with No. 10 Solvent or No. 10 Copper Cutter.

6. Run the patch down the barrel to soak the fouled bore. Remove soiled patch from rod as it exits the end of the bore. Pulling the patch back through can redeposit fouling and draw debris into the action. Let the solvent soak a couple of minutes to help remove any lead or carbon buildup.

7. Remove the Jag or Patch Holder, and attach the appropriate bore brush. Saturate the brush with the solvent and work it back and forth through the bore 3-6 times. Reattach the Jag or Patch Holder with a soaked patch, and run down the bore with new patches until they emerge clean. Run a dry patch down the bore to remove any remaining residue. Check barrel for traces of fouling and repeat process if necessary.

8. Place 3-4 drops of Formula 3 Gun Conditioner or TW25B High Tech Lubricant (follow the suggested instructions for the product) on a patch or Cotton Mop and run it down the cleaned bore to leave a light coating of rust preventative behind.

9. Using the double ended Nylon Gun Brush soaked in No. 10 Solvent or Copper Cutter, begin to remove any unburnt powder or debris in and around the action. If available, use a degreaser, such as Kleen-Bore’s “Gunk-Out” to remove loosened fouling and wipe with a clean cloth. Be sure to lightly lubricate all surfaces that have been degreased, and all moving parts. This will aid in rust prevention as well as increase the life of the firearm. Do not over lubricate, this can cause the action to become gummy, allowing dust and debris to collect.

10. When reassembling the firearm, be sure to wipe down any metal surfaces that you have come in contact with, due to the oils that are on the skin. The Silicone Gun and Reel Cloth are ideal for this. It will remove handling marks, restore luster, and provide rust protection. Wearing latex gloves when handling the firearm will help prevent the oils from getting on the metal and reduce the risk of rust. This will also reduce the need for cleaning due to excessive handling.

11. CAUTION: Before any firearm is fired, be sure the bore is free of any obstruction. This may cause bodily harm or death, as well as damage to your firearm. Never attempt to shoot an obstruction clear.

The following are a more detailed focus on cleaning the Bore and Action:

CLEANING THE BORE

1. Dip a patch in No. 10 or No. 11 Copper Cutter Solvent and pass it, on a jag or patch holder, through the bore several times to penetrate and loosen fouling. Work from the rear whenever possible and don't pull the dirty patch back through the bore. Note: use the muzzle guard to center the rod and help protect the bore.

2. Dip a phosphor bronze brush of the proper size in solvent and pass it through the bore several times. Again, work from the rear and go in one direction only.

3. Pass clean, dry patches through the bore until there are no signs of residue on the patch. Work from the rear and go in one direction only.

4. Lightly lubricate (just a dab of TW25 or 3 or 4 drops of Formula 3) a bore mop of the proper size and pass it through the bore 3 or 4 times.

CLEANING THE ACTION

1. Dip a nylon or phosphor bronze gun brush in solvent and scrub areas where powder residues and fouling build up (top strap, forcing cone, ejectors, slides, etc.).

2. Follow the same procedure on bolts, frames, trigger assemblies, etc. to loosen burnt powder, old lubrication and other fouling.

3. Blast away loose fouling with a powerful cleaner/degreaser like Gunk Out to prepare for proper lubrication.

4. LUBRICATION: Sparingly use a quality lubricant like TW25 B, Formula 3 or Super Lube to protect moving parts and inhibit rust. Remember not to over lubricate.

5. After reassembling the gun, wipe all exposed metal surfaces with a silicone gun and reel cloth to eliminate fingerprints and provide rust protection. If gun is to be stored for a length of time, consider using Rust Guardit for long-term protection.